Edinburgh has changed in the two decades since Danny Boyle's Trainspotting advertised it as a perfectly awful place to shoot heroin. The gamblers' squat that housed the Worst Toilet in Scotland was torn down for luxury apartments. The same goes for the nightclub where Ewan McGregor picked up an underage schoolgirl. The pub where Begbie broke a pool cue over a stranger's back was upgraded twice: first to a whiskey bar, and then to a hipster arcade. "The vibrancy of the city is completely different," says Boyle on a bright afternoon in Los Angeles. In 1996, his needles-and-cobblestones Edinburgh joy buzzer was such a shock to the film industry that it felt like it was shot on a different...
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